We’ve sold Ferghettina for many years now- many of you may have met the lovely Laura, the founder’s daughter, at a wine dinner we did pre-Covid. An exemplary estate to the south of Lago d’Iseo in Lombardy, in Italy’s finest sparkling wine zone, Franciacorta (pr. Franch-ee-ya-cort-ah). I popped in a few weeks back on my way to Verona, an act of pilgrimage, to see quite how they do it. They produce a remarkable range of cuvées, from Extra Brut to rosé, to blanc de noirs, to their Milledi (aged for 1000 days in a fancy square-shaped bottle). It was great to taste each of them at the winery, just as this year’s harvest was being pressed in the background. Whilst their premium cuvées are deservedly revered, I think their house ‘Brut’ is their greatest creation. In many ways, it’s a lot easier to produce small quantities from your finest plot. The real skill of both the viticulturist and the winemaker is most apparent with this, their non vintage, which accounts for 75% of their production. This is a blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Nero (aka Noir) sourced from 120 hectares spread across 6 localities with the DOC. It’s fermented in stainless steel, with 30 months on lees after the second fermentation. We’re some way south from Champagne here, so the acidity is much less pronounced, with a softer, riper fruit profile. Golden apple and citrus fruit, with a sliver of peach, dance freestyle on your palate, whilst the finest of bubbles provide the percussion to keep the party bouncing. At this price, this is proper bonkers- only a fool should resist!
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